On departure day, we attended the seniors' holiday party after Mass. Here we see Father Nenes writing his best wishes to Father Jaroslaw.

Marty grew up with the Pappas kids. He has wonderful stories to share. He was moved to hear that we were determined to find Michael.

Traveling to Poland in December to research a church with a horrifying American war-time connection, in the midst of the COVID pandemic that was crushing Europe, while Belarus was pressuring Poland's borders, and Russia was poised to invade Ukraine. What could go wrong?

Our meeting in Krakow was Marcin Kopytko's second shortest trip on behalf of the Lindell crew. Over the years he has visited American, British, Polish, and German archives, seeking puzzle pieces to the views "from above" and "below." The Dude's shortest trip? He guided us to the truth enveloped in the Light in his hometown.

Starka restaurant, Krakow. The Pappas women had the best soup here in 2016. (It's the meat broth.)

St. John of Nepomuk church, Stare Kozle

First look at the scope of work

My goodness, we have a lot of work ahead.

The fog magically amplifies the light.

In December, the sun sets early.

The church glows as the grave lights twinkle. Nightfall was an incredibly peaceful time of day.

The Spirits welcomed us. They kept us safe -- but not warm.

On the days that evening Mass was held, we would race back to Marcin's apartment to change clothes and then race back to Mass. Our route cut through the old IG Farben factory grounds ("Blechhammer South"). Today it is Azoty, a large chemical company that produces fertilizer. What were normal Christmas decorations for locals seemed so poignant to this visitor (Christmas at Blechhammer).

 

Jadzia and her son. She welcomed us for meals and accompanied us to Mass.

Marcin's Aunt Hilda was our guardian angel. Her Silesian soup "zurek" warmed our frozen bones.